Milan Fashion Week
This is the time of year when I praise the internet, no more waiting months for the magazines to publish images of gorgeous models strutting down the catwalks on impossibly high shoes. Now, thankfully, I can spend hours (and I do) actually watching the shows and browsing through images, seeing immediately what the trends will be next season.
It always kicks off with Milan. There Dolce and Gabana made me smile with their real take on 1950s’ fit-and-flare dresses with a touch of kitsch, bold prints of vegetables and earrings to match. A nod to Prada’s banana prints of last season. The shapes and cutting, as always, created a sexy feminine silhouette, while the hair, again playing homage to the 1950s, was swept back but with movement and disheveled but controlled feel. It wasn’t my favourite show of the week, but it definitely made me smile.
I was most impressed with Prada. A 50s’ feel again with edgy leather and silk satin pencil skirts, dresses, swimsuits and beautiful jackets sporting flower embroidery and prints of cartoon super hero cars. Only Miuccia can pull this off. The hair was very Sophie Loren after swimming in the Mediterranean, soft waves with the surface worked through with high shine gel. 50s’ inspired, but modern and new. Very exciting.
Still in Milan I loved the hair at Fendi; swept back, rounded bob shapes that were tight at the sides and puffed out behind the ears. Very 1950s’ American housewife waiting for husband to arrive home from the office.
London Fashion Week
For me Burberry Prorsum was London Fashion Week. I loved how Christopher Baily has embraced new technology without abandoning traditional techniques. Crochet, beading, carving, braiding and printing, all classic techniques with a new slant, were in evidence. The influence was ethnic, inspired by exotic places. I’m glad Prorsum has not forgotten its heritage.
I did feel the hair could have said more without detracting from the clothes. It was left loose with a little wave and middle partings. I would have gone for braided ponytails pinned to the head.
Paris Fashion Week
Haider Ackermann was a complete stand out for me in Paris. His critics say his clothes are unwearable. What I see are design masterpieces. The jewel-like colours, the structure and cut of the garments make these pieces iconic. The hair was very androgynous with tight sides and loose top lengths. Very inspiring.